These Are Special Times

It's beginning to look a lot (more) like Christmas these days, now that my adorable little evergreen tree, adorned with mini pinecones and ornaments, sits decoratively in my living room while I sip on some spiced apple cider and listen to Sarah McLachlan (Wintersong), Michael Bublé (Let It Snow), and Céline Dion (These Are Special Times) sing about a river, a grown-up Christmas list, and chestnuts roasting on an open fire.

Though Christmas has in the last ten years been somewhat of a bittersweet occasion for me, the holiday season brings a lot of festive joy for many and, for me, still remains one of the most special times of the year—a time to be thankful for all our blessings, a time to cherish our family and loved ones, and a time to reflect on another year gone by and to look to the new one with a renewed sense of hope and optimism.

To all my loyal readers, both here and abroad, may this holiday season be filled with much love, hope, and happiness. As a new year approaches, I leave you with the following—a thought-provoking quotation that caught my eye while brunching at Luma the other day (and one that is discreetly engraved on the stainless-steel railing of the BlackBerry Lounge in the TIFF Bell Lightbox):

Don't just like. LIKE is watered-down love. Like is mediocre. Like is the wishy-washy emotion of the content. Athletes don't do it for the like of a sport. Artists don't suffer for the like of art. There is no I like N.Y. T-shirt. And Romeo didn't just like Juliet. LOVE. Now that's powerful stuff. Love changes things. Upsets things. Conquers things. Love is at the root of everything good that has ever happened and will ever happen. LOVE what you do.

Visual Eats: Boulevard Café

Tender, moist rainbow trout, contrasted with thick, rough bundles of chewy, difficult-to-eat bok choy and deep-fried yuca

Alfajor (caramel layered shortbread cake)

Boulevard Café is located at: 161 Harbord Street (Borden Street, between Bathurst Street and Spadina Avenue)

Visual Eats: The Gladstone Hotel

Piri Piri Chicken & Quinoa Salad: crisp marinated boneless chicken on a salad of roasted squash, figs, and quinoa with Portuguese salsa

The Gladstone Hotel is located at: 1214 Queen Street West (Dufferin Street)

Oliver & Bonacini

Peter Oliver and Michael Bonacini are the culinary masterminds behind a stellar group of restaurants that began with its now-legendary Jump (a favourite among business tycoons in the Financial District) and has since expanded its operations to include Canoe (perched atop the TD Canada Trust Tower, one of two renowned restaurants in the city—the other is 360 Restaurant at the CN Tower—offering a spectacular view of the Toronto skyline), Biff's Bistro (a modern Parisian eatery by the St. Lawrence Market), and Oliver & Bonacini Café Grill (five locations throughout Ontario).

The partners, also responsible for Soma Chocolatemaker in the Distillery Historic District, recently celebrated the addition of two new establishments with the opening of O&B Canteen, a fresh-market café and bakery, in August, followed a few weeks later by the upscale Luma, situated on the upper level of the TIFF Bell Lightbox—the new home of the Toronto International FIlm Festival and a striking architectural beauty that graces the northwest corner of King and John Streets.

Spinach Salad

At brunch recently at Luma, I ordered the spinach salad with shaved fennel and radicchio, alongside a serving of O&B's very own artisan toast with butter. Sprinkled with pine nuts and dressed in a lemon vinaigrette, the spinach salad would have been just as tasty with half the amount of sodium, but was of a good portion size and a light alternative that left ample room for dessert: warm pear galette with vanilla and ginger ice cream—a danish-like puff pastry that was good but nothing extraordinary.

Warm Pear Galette

I did, however, take quite a liking to the loose-leaf mint tea, which remained at just the right temperature in the handsome clay teapot sitting tastefully in the equally handsome dining room furnished with rich wood, leather and stone interiors, and designed with remarkable floor-to-ceiling views of the theatre strip along King Street West.

Although the menu at Luma is somewhat limited in selection, the quality and freshness of the ingredients, coupled with the exquisite presentation of the dishes, make this venue an ideal meeting place for brunch or dinner prior to catching one of a number of independent films at this swanky five-storey entertainment complex in the heart of downtown Toronto.

Luma is located at: 330 King Street West (John Street)

The Sultan's Tent

Charred Seafood Salad

Having frequented this establishment for quite some time now, I thought it only befitting to dedicate this next blog post to what my mentor and I fondly refer to as "The Tent"—The Sultan's Tent, that is. Located in the St. Lawrence Market neighbourhood, right across the street from the Flatiron Building, The Sultan's Tent & Café Moroc figures on my list of top Toronto restaurants and is sure to please even the most discerning diners among us.

M'Hancha

Specializing in Northwest African cuisine with a French Mediterranean influence, this beautifully adorned restaurant serves a sumptuous array of traditional dishes amidst a regal yet cozy backdrop—an elegant setting that momentarily transports you to a time and a place evocative of a sultan's palatial grounds. In fact, upon entering the establishment, you can't help but admire the luxurious hand-woven rug (a gift from the King of Morocco, no less) that graces the right-hand side of the wall and lends itself well to the restaurant's lavish interiors.

There are so many tantalizing items on their lunch, dinner, and dessert menus that I'm reluctant to steer your attention to those I consistently gravitate towards. However, here are some notable mentions that will perhaps whet your palate and provide you with a glimpse into what you can expect:

• Charred Seafood Salad: seared shrimp, scallops, and calamari, served over a bed of lettuce and drizzled with Champagne vinaigrette and a saffron emulsion (as I find the saffron emulsion, loaded with a tad too much mayonnaise, a bit overpowering for what is otherwise a light, refreshing appetizer, I always request that the chef go easy on this component)
• Grilled Vegetable Pita: seasoned grilled vegetables, broiled with Swiss cheese and served with fig jam and cardamon yogurt
• Mango Salmon: pan-seared fillet, topped with mango salsa and served with saffron basmati rice and Moroccan root vegetables
• Seafood Royale: seared jumbo shrimp, scallops, mussels, and calamari, served over a bed of saffron rice in a hearty lobster broth
• M'Hancha: crisp pastry roll, wrapped around slivered almonds and honey-enrobed raisins and sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Consider this the sexy and much more sophisticated version of the classic Cinnabon roll. Mmm ... one of the most gratifying desserts ever.
• Mint Tea: Moroccan loose-leaf tea, sweetened and steeped with fresh mint leaves—so soothing that you'll end up sipping several cups of this before you'll want the bill to arrive.

The menu speaks for itself, doesn't it? Bon appétit!

The Sultan's Tent & Café Moroc is located at: 49 Front Street East (Church Street)

The Food of the Gods

One of my favourite reads comes from celebrated American pastry chef David Lebovitz, whose Living the Sweet Life in Paris is a personal collection of humorous anecdotes inspired by his years of living as an expatriate in Paris. For those feeling nostalgic or yearning for a taste of France, you'll find several cultural references mixed in with his signature tongue-in-cheek humour, along with a number of tempting recipes sprinkled throughout this well written memoir that are sure to keep the pages turning and have you coming back for more.

And ... if jetting off to Paris isn't in your immediate flight plans, there is, of course, another option of living the sweet life closer to home, thanks to an artisan chocolaterie tucked away in Toronto's Distillery Historic District. Yes, indeed, Soma Chocolatemaker is where you'll frequently find me wandering off to on a lazy Sunday afternoon (or just about whenever the urge arises) to indulge in its exquisite assortment of dark-chocolate truffles, scrumptious nuts and biscuits, refreshing gelato, or Mayan hot chocolate.

At Soma, you'd be remiss if you left without a bag full of goodies. Some of my all-time favourites include the wild cherries and slow-roasted almonds tumbled in dark Peruvian chocolate (64%); the light, crispy, wafer-thin almond chips; and the heavenly (read: orgasmic) crunchy spiced pecans. These handcrafted treats are such a pure delight that it's no wonder that an entire package is easily (and very often) consumed in just one sitting. Best of all, they're produced from high-quality, organic Fair Trade cacao beans, they're preservative- and junk-free, and they're made right before your eyes through the viewing windows of Soma's micro chocolate factory.

Now that the holiday season is upon us, there's also a variety of gift baskets and limited-edition X'mas 2010 collections for family, friends, and loved ones. There's the Ultimate Bowl of Plenty for the serious addicts in your life, there's also the Dark Chocolate Lover's Basket for those who prefer the darker side of indulgences (or are simply too posh for milk), and then there's the boxed triumvirate: the Revo(lution) Box, the Exploration Box, and the Elixir Box.

Yes, this is Huxley's Brave New World of chocolate, where "there is always soma, delicious soma, half a gramme for a half-holiday, a gram for a week-end, two grammes for a trip to the gorgeous East, three for a dark eternity on the moon ... "

Soma Chocolatemaker is located in Building 48 of the Distillery Historic District at: 55 Mill Street (between Parliament and Cherry Streets)

Dessert Trends

Just when I thought I had discovered all there was to know about my hometown, along came an American expatriate who, ironically enough, was the one who introduced me to this trendy community in the South Annex that, up until recently, had remained a hidden gem, unbeknownst to this epicurean Torontonian. Just north of College Street between Ossington and Spadina Avenues is Harbord Street, whose small-town charm and bohemian appeal can be attributed to its eclectic mix of bakeries, bistros, bookshops, music stores, restaurants, and bars.

My first encounter with this neighbourhood occurred one rainy evening not so long ago, when I had the pleasure of dining at The Harbord Room—an interesting establishment that offers a contemporary feel in an otherwise quaint, rustic ambience. The dimly lit tables, for instance, made for an ideal setting for either an intimate gathering of close friends or a romantic dinner for two, and service that evening was prompt, attentive, and friendly.

Of course, I can only speak for myself with respect to the meal (I ordered the whole grilled bronzini—and whole, indeed, it was), which, to paraphrase from the lips of a certain someone, was neither disappointing nor impressive. In other words, great company and stimulating conversation, peppered with some witty banter here and there, were the most appetizing aspects of dinner as far as I was concerned, yet a memorable dining experience it nonetheless was. The grilled bronzini? Mm ... not so much, but perhaps the risotto (with roasted squash, braised kale, toasted nuts, and fresh sheep's milk cheese), like the Ontario Harvest Venison (with squash purée and black currant jus), would have been the more delicious alternative ;).

Although the carrot cake with poached pears (served with vanilla ice cream, pistachio, and carrot cream parfait) was tempting for dessert, I opted instead for what had ultimately piqued my interest: DT Bistro, which I was told specialized in over 20 varieties of pastries, tarts, and cakes. Impressed, I most certainly was. In fact, I was quite the giddy little girl in the candy store or, in this case, this French-inspired pâtisserie.

It was still raining when we left the restaurant and crossed the street, only to discover that the bistro had closed about an hour earlier; however, perhaps upon seeing our doe-eyed expressions, Chef Donald Duong and co-founder Wayne O'Brien not only greeted us with an avuncular warmth and kindness, but also waved us in. While Chef Duong wished us a pleasant evening on his way out the door, Wayne turned the lights back on so that we could be seated, and then proceeded to provide us with the most hospitable service ever imaginable.

From apple flan and Bailey's cheesecake to blueberry parfait mousse and chocolate maple pecan, selecting from the dessert menu proved to be a bit of a challenge, but a decision was quickly made: key lime mousse and chocolate raspberry. Mmm ... a culinary delight, as well as the perfect finishing touch to a fabulous, fun-filled night.

The Harbord Room is located at: 89 Harbord Street (Spadina Avenue)

DT Bistro is located at: 154 Harbord Street (between Bathurst Street and Spadina Avenue)

TERRA Chips

My love affair with TERRA Chips arose from a couple of flights on Porter Airlines, which, like JetBlue Airways, began offering these tasty exotic root-vegetable chips on board its short-haul flights. I call it a love story for a couple of reasons: (1) the scarcity of this product in Canada requires that I go to great lengths to feed my current addiction; and (2) when I do stock up my pantry with these savoury treats, I often devour an entire 170-gram bag in one sitting (per day), which results in a vicious (but very delicious) cycle in my never-ending TERRA Chips adventure.

First of all, these chips aren't like any other (regular) potato chips. These are the real deal, uniquely beautiful both inside and out (what they proudly refer to as "the TERRA difference"), and, in all honesty, the only ones that have succeeded in converting this non-chip-eater to a chip aficionada. When it comes to TERRA, it's all or nothing—the whole package, if you will. Aside from how ridiculously intoxicating these chips are, they really do taste as good as they look and are a guilt-free indulgence ("a full serving of vegetables in every ounce"). From batata and parsnip to taro and yuca, they strike a satisfying balance with their complex, sometimes nutty, yet always intense and delicate bounty of flavours. This truly was ... (sigh!) ... love at first bite!

According to its website, TERRA Chips now come in over 30 varieties but, while their line of products seems to be readily available in hundreds of supermarkets, pharmacies, and health food stores across the United States, it is an odd rarity north of the border, where they are found only in gourmet food markets and in the specialty aisles of select supermarkets here in Toronto. Aside from the stark supply contrast that exists between the United States and Canada, there is also a noticeable price discrepancy that fuels an ongoing debate over cross-border shopping and makes me an avid proponent of it (perhaps something to keep in mind for a future blog posting).

For those residing in the downtown core of Toronto, you won't be able to find TERRA Chips in your local Sobeys, Metro, Rabba, or Longo's supermarkets (trust me—I've even tried different locations of the same store). However, for $6.39 (plus 13% tax), you can enjoy a 170-gram bag at Whole Foods Market in Yorkville (at present, available varieties include: Original, Mediterranean, Zesty Tomato, Sweet Potato, and Sweets and Beets). More recently, I discovered that you can indulge in exactly the same size and variety at Pusateri's for $7.99 but, if you can get yourself to a Loblaws (the closest one downtown is on Lower Jarvis at Queens Quay), that identical bag can be yours for just $4.99!

I'll have to do some research when I'm back in the States, but I have it on good authority that these chips sell for as little as $3.99 ($2.99 on special) at a neighbourhood Gristede's (NYC), though I'm curious to know if prices are consistent among other local retailers (The Food Emporium, Duane Reade, perhaps Dean & Deluca?). I also can't help but wonder how Canadian customs officials would react if they ever stumbled upon a carry-on luggage devoted solely to TERRA Chips while conducting a random baggage search—a humorous scenario if ever there was one ...

Sunday Brunch

Situated on the northwest corner of Portland and Adelaide Street West, Sadie's Diner and Juice Bar is an interesting local vegetarian/vegan eatery in downtown Toronto that features an extensive and reasonably priced all-day breakfast and drinks menu. Its down-to-earth atmosphere makes this a great place to meet up with friends for brunch and catch up over a generous serving of huevos rancheros ($10), buckwheat pancakes ($8.50), or scrambled tofu with veggie bacon or sausage ($7.50), but, sadly, this relaxed environment also translates into a very lazy and non-service-oriented kitchen and wait staff.

I decided to order a classic grilled cheese and tomato sandwich with salad ($6), along with a side dish of home-baked spinach and tofu samosas ($4). Taking my first bite out of the sandwich made me question whether or not it was, in fact, a cheese and tomato sandwich. Upon further inspection, and to my disappointment, I quickly discovered that the only ingredient between my otherwise decent-tasting sandwich was a layer of melted soy cheese between two buttered slices of Wonder whole-wheat bread. As for the samosas? Home-baked, perhaps, but then frozen and nuked in the microwave. Hmm ... a tad soggy and a very unappetizing appetizer.

After I inquired with wait staff about the grilled cheese and tomato-less sandwich, the server went to the kitchen and checked her notes, then returned to confirm that it was indeed a simple grilled cheese sandwich. I suppose I wasn't being all too explicit, however, when I followed up by indicating that it would still be nice to have some tomato prepared with this grilled cheese sandwich. Rather than apologizing and graciously offering to correct the order, the server then came back, somewhat flustered, and plopped down a side plate of two cold slices of tomato, perhaps thinking she was being generous by adding that she would only charge me for the grilled cheese sandwich ($5) and not for the two tomato slices. She then walked away. Lovely.

With so many fabulous brunch alternatives in the city, I can tell you now that I have no intention whatsoever of returning to this diner, nor will I be recommending this joint to family, friends, or colleagues. Instead, I'd be inclined to do them a favour by warning them against this establishment and offering up helpful alternatives. Trust me—you'd be better off taking your appetite and business elsewhere. Sadie's Diner no more.

Sadie's Diner and Juice Bar is located at: 504 Adelaide Street West (Portland Street)

The Fashionista in All of Us

A shopping excursion earlier this month at Toronto's flagship Holt Renfrew department store reminded me of Émile Zola's Au Bonheur des Dames, for which I wrote a dissertation in one of my French literature classes oh-so-long ago. It got me thinking about consumer culture and how, despite changes that have taken place over the years, certain social norms have remained fairly constant in the course of the past couple of centuries.

The advent of the department store marked an innovative development in the retail industry in 19th-century France, but also in other parts of the world: England had its Harrods (1834); Hong Kong, its Lane Crawford (1850); France, its Galeries Lafayette (1893); the United States, its Saks Fifth Avenue (1898); and Canada, its Holt Renfrew, whose origins date back to 1837—three decades prior to Confederation, interestingly enough.

Since then, there's been a rising trend towards the independent boutiques (along Toronto's Queen Street West and in Manhattan's SoHo district, for instance), but the high-end department store is of historic and social significance because of the way it has revolutionized consumer culture around the world. It continues to symbolize what Zola quite accurately described at the time as a shopper's paradise (consider the convenience of having all your favourite boutiques housed in one architecturally stunning building), and it's perhaps for this very reason that I often regard shopping as not just a leisure activity, but also a cherished experience for the fashionista in all of us.

A Word About ... Obnoxious Audience Members

Over the last two decades, I've attended enough shows—be they musicals, comedies, concerts, ballets, or operas—to realize that one is bound to encounter the occasional annoyances caused by ignorant, ill-mannered audience members: the disruptive group of teenagers who insist on carrying on a very audible conversation throughout the course of a play; the boorish clod who intentionally neglects to turn off his cell phone so that he can continue to receive unimportant calls and chat away in the middle of a jazz number (until a disgruntled neighbour turns around and tells him to shush, that is); or the big-haired woman seated in front of you who has her BlackBerry in the palm of her hand and allows the light from the screen to illuminate an otherwise dark theatre at five-minute intervals during a three-hour performance.

Nevertheless, those unpleasant incidents aren't what this blog post is about. No. This post is dedicated to that utterly obnoxious woman who was standing—not seated—two rows diagonal from me in orchestra centre of a recent Toronto performance of Rock of Ages. So, no, this post isn't even about a review of the musical. This is about that woman who, throughout nearly the entire duration of the show, chose to stand two metres from the stage and gyrate to the tunes of 80s rock music, perhaps reminiscing about her lost adolescent years or trying to relive her teenage fantasies as a rock star.

Forgive me if I come across as harsh with what I'm about to write here, but neither I nor the others seated around me went to this performance so that we could witness some buffoon make a fool of herself in front of a thousand other patrons at the Royal Alex. Not only were her wide hip twirls and dramatic arm-flinging off-putting to all those in proximity, but her provocative dance moves were a huge distraction to the cast members whose appalled (read: disgusted) facial expressions were clearly visible from where I was seated in the fourth row. To make matters worse, the woman motioned for her girlfriend to get up and dance with her each time she stood up, but thank goodness her friend had the good sense to shake her head (in mortification, no doubt).

As with certain other musicals where it's perfectly normal to want to sway in your seats and clap your hands in sync with the rhythm and beats of the music, I had no qualms with her overzealousness for the musical; what I—along with others both in the audience and on stage—found repulsive and distasteful was her unsolicited, attention-seeking participation in the performance and her disregard for the cast and other audience members. Perhaps she'd have been better off signing up as a contestant on So You Think You Can Dance but, as far as the rest of us were concerned, any entertainment value that she was hoping to contribute to that evening's musical performance was neither welcomed nor appreciated.

Senses

At times, it's hard to imagine that it's been a little over seven years since I moved (back) to Toronto—a city whose ethnic and cultural diversity is reflected in its various world cuisines and one that easily allows you to be transported from the vibrant, bustling streets of Chinatown and the sidewalk cafés of Little Italy ... to the dazzling array of festivals in Greektown and the fragrant spice markets in Little India. I've now spent half of those years in the Entertainment District—a neighbourhood that, apart from its live theatres and performing arts centres, is recognized for some of the best fine dining establishments in the city.

One of these establishments can be found on the ground level of the SoHo Met, a luxury boutique hotel located just up the street from my condo that houses the upscale Senses Bakery and Restaurant. On multiple occasions, I've no doubt indulged in the bakery's mango lime cheesecake, "Raspberry Symphony," white-chocolate cheesecake, or "Tuscany" dessert, but only recently did I have the opportunity to sample the restaurant's dinner menu featuring Chef Patrick Lin's signature Asian-fushion dishes.

While service was cordial (though nothing exceptional), the food was exquisite both in taste and presentation. Appreciating how unfortunate it would be to forego dessert while dining at Senses, I decided to bypass the selection of appetizers (nothing on the list having particularly appealed to my senses) and wasted no time ordering the sea bass, followed by a quartet of crème brûlée.

The main course took an unusually long time to arrive (45 minutes, despite there being at the time only two other tables of seated guests in the dining area), but it did prove to be worth the wait, especially when there was duck confit to accompany the bread basket. Fresh, moist, and tender, the filet of sea bass was baked to mouth-watering perfection and served over a bed of wasabi-flavoured risotto—a nice Japanese-inspired twist to an otherwise ordinary side dish. Dessert, too, was a creative rendition of a European classic: four mini ramekins of scrumptious vanilla, mocha, ginger, and chocolate crème brûlée—a delicious end to a superb dining experience.

Senses Restaurant is located in the SoHo Metropolitan Hotel at: 328 Wellington Street West (Blue Jays Way)

Sin City

"Whoever said money can't buy happiness doesn't know where to shop." Perhaps this explains why you will see no shortage of happy people in Sin City. Those who are familiar with Las Vegas know that, despite its notoriety for adult entertainment and gambling, it is a city that is internationally renowned for its shopping and fine dining—a reason for which, to date, I have flown into McCarran International Airport (LAS) a total of 10 times, seven of which took place in 2008 alone.

When I'm asked what the appeal of Las Vegas is to me, my response is two-fold. The stretch of Las Vegas Boulevard known as the Strip is not only: (1) a shopper's paradise, but also (2) home to seven (eight, if you count Dragone's Le Rêve under the same umbrella) Cirque du Soleil venues. Factor into the equation the dry heat—in contrast to Toronto's cold and damp winters—and the Strip's proximity to the airport, and it becomes apparent as to why Las Vegas makes an ideal weekend getaway for the vitamin D-deficient.

My eyes light up like a little girl in a candy shop whenever I walk though the doors of The Forum Shops at Caesars or the myriad high-end boutiques at Bellagio and The Palazzo—and it's not so much the shopping as it is the atmosphere in which I find myself immersed that is both seductive and contagious. People here are happy, due in large part to the fact that it is a city of tourists—not just bachelors and bachelorettes, but also families, retirees, and couples—and when shops like Jean-Philippe Pâtisserie and the recently opened Max Brenner entice visitors with their sweets and chocolate (by the Bald Man), indulgence becomes a habit, harder each time to resist.

With more than half of its permanent shows situated in Las Vegas, Cirque du Soleil has left an indelible presence on both sides of the Strip and is one of the driving forces behind the city's economic viability. I've been an ardent fan of this Québec-based company since I was an undergrad who spent her summers in Montréal, Trois-Rivières, and Québec City, and I make it a point to follow its touring shows in whichever city I happen to be. It's one of the reasons that has drawn me to Las Vegas in the past, and I can undoubtedly tell you that there will be several more visits to this city that is so aptly referred to as the entertainment capital of the world. Viva Las Vegas.

Crêperies

Living in France during my French undergrad studies definitely had its perks when it came to its cuisine. I recall with nostalgia my daily visits to the local boulangerie for a demi-baguette or to one of a number of corner-block pâtisseries where I often indulged in a pain au chocolat (sometimes two, maybe even three). Best of all, however, I cherished those moments where I'd satiate my appetite with a (savoury) galette or a (sweet) crêpe, be it while wandering the labyrinthine streets in the old part of town or taking a picturesque stroll along the Promenade des Anglais. Ahh ... those were the days!

Although crêperies are nothing new in North America and, in general, are fairly consistent when it comes to their dessert crêpes (one can hardly go wrong with dessert!), I still haven't stumbled upon a galette quite like the ones I inhaled in France, particularly during my brief séjour in Rennes, the Breton capital famous for its thin buckwheat-flour pancakes ("les galettes bretonnes"). To this day, I am still in search of that perfect galette here on this side of the Atlantic ...

Though none has come close, here are a few Toronto crêperies that may, at the very least, satisfy your cravings till your next flight to France:

• Café Crêpe: is great if you're looking for a dessert crêpe (my all-time favourites are the cinnamon sugar and dark chocolate banana—simple and oh-so-good!). However, if your focus is on a savoury meal, I'd recommend one of the other crêperies mentioned below. The galettes here are made with the same batter used for the dessert crêpes and are therefore too thick, too heavy, and too dry. The spinach galette? Imagine a plain flour tortilla filled with canned spinach and nothing else (no cheese, no sauce, no oil, no dressing—nothing). To illustrate just how dry that galette would feel in your mouth, you'd have to rely on lots of water in between bites to assist the digestion process. I ordered a similar galette on another occasion (just in case kitchen staff were being absent-minded that one particular day), but the savoury crêpes appear to be consistent—consistently awful, that is.
• Crêpes à GoGo: gets a high rating. French-owned and -operated (chatted with the proprietor, Valérie, who hails from Marseille), this crêperie offers a solid menu of both crêpes and galettes, with just the right amount of filling in every bite. Although seating is limited and overall prices are a bit steeper than at Café Crêpe, the taste and quality of the ingredients definitely make the trip to Yorkville worth its while.
• Jules Bistro: could be better. While the crêpes are prepared in generous portions and are quite pleasing to the palette, don't even think about customizing your order—to my dismay, I learned that they come pre-made and frozen, so elimination of any ingredient isn't made possible. Needless to say, I was not all too impressed ...
• Le Papillon (on Front): is one I frequent on a fairly regular basis. The quality and presentation vary, depending on the kitchen staff at any given moment, but it certainly hasn't precluded me from going back, time and again. My usual? The crêpe florentine with the garlic mushrooms, followed by the crêpe banane royale for dessert—perfect with a flute of Café de Paris for either brunch or dinner.

Crêpe banane royale (Le Papillon)

Toronto's Distillery District

When I reflect on the number of cities that I have either lived in or travelled to over the past several years, there are a handful of them that occupy a special place in my heart.

From the City of Light and the Côte d'Azur ... to the Paris of the East and the city that never sleeps, I often ask myself what it is that makes these cities tick, that magnetic quality that never ceases to tug at my heartstrings each and every time I'm there. Is it the charming sidewalk cafés and local crêperies ... or the white sandy (sometimes pebbled) beaches and deep-blue Mediterranean Sea? Or is it the cultural diversity of cities on the move that awakens my senses and always keeps me coming back for more?

And then ... there's Toronto—my city of birth and beloved hometown, but certainly not the sexy sibling in a family of superstars. It is, nonetheless, a city I've called home for many years and one that has its appeal in its own little ways ...

In the east end of downtown Toronto is an historic area known as the Distillery District—a pedestrian village of brick-lined streets and restored Victorian industrial architecture that is home to live theatres, art galleries, studios, independent boutiques, open-air festivals, restaurants, and cafés. Nowhere in this city will you see such a rich concentration and an eclectic mix of artistic talent than in this hip and trendy neighbourhood.

Here are a few of my favourites (in alphabetical order):

• Balzac's Coffee: Inspired by France's 19th-century novelist and playright of the same name, this coffeehouse pays homage to one of history's literary greats ... and greatest coffee lovers, said to have consumed copious amounts throughout his nights of prolific writing, one of which produced a dissertation titled The Pleasures and Pains of Coffee. A fine selection of delectable blends in an architecturally stunning ambience.
• Bergo Designs: features a diverse and innovative line of sleek, modern home décor products, furniture, and jewellery by international designers such as Frank Gehry, Michael Graves, and Philippe Starck. An impressive showcase of elegance and sophistication in design.
• Hästens: Walk into this store that specializes in Swedish-designed, handcrafted beds and be greeted by amicable staff who encourage you to lie on their beds as they eagerly await to assist you with all your bed, mattress, and pillow needs.
• Soma Chocolatemaker: really deserves a post of its own. In the meantime, step into this chocolate shop and observe first-hand the handcraftsmanship of truffles, biscuits, and drink mixes through the glass windows of Soma's micro chocolate factory—one of but a few North American artisans of chocolate, made in small batches directly from the cacao bean. "A place to eat, drink and worship chocolate." Mmm ... simply divine!

The Distillery Historic District is located at: 55 Mill Street (between Parliament and Cherry Streets)

Hotel Indigo

For as long as I can remember, hotel accommodation has been an important aspect of my travels, and the more travelling I accomplish these days, the more importance I attach to the quality and comfort level of hotel choices. This may seem odd, coming from an avid traveller who loves to explore, preferring to optimize her time by spending the majority of it outside the hotel and in and around the city, but when you give it some more thought, it makes absolute sense. Sleep, after all, is a prized commodity, and just one lousy night in a not-so-lovely hotel room can set the tone for the following day and, in turn, the overall experience of your trip.

Unless your company is flying you down to an all-inclusive luxury resort for the purpose of a business conference, or you belong to the jet-setting crowd of the rich and famous, value will factor into the equation when it comes to booking your hotel room, and that's where the concept of Hotel Indigo appeals to one's senses.

Marketed as an "upscale boutique" brand, Hotel Indigo belongs to the InterContinental Hotels Group and is being touted as "the industry's first branded boutique hotel experience," unique in its retail-inspired design concept of keeping up with the pace of change—the change in window displays, if you will—all at affordable prices.

I stayed at one such hotel in St. Petersburg (Florida) and another in Riverhead (New York) earlier this year—two different hotels resulting in two very different experiences ...

While both offered standard Aveda hair and body products (always a bonus in my book of amenities), and service was courteous and professional, the hotel in St. Pete, which appeared to have been converted from a very old mansion, also had the look (chipped paint) and feel (mugginess) and smell (mildew) of a very old mansion, all the while trying to present itself as a trendy boutique hotel. Alas, boutique and trendy it was not.

In fact, I was more comfortable wearing my flip-flops into the shower, which, though spaceous, occupied half the size of the bathroom. This would have been perfectly fine, only it left just enough room to squeeze in a miniature sink, allowing nowhere, besides the hotel's signature wooden stool, which stands awkwardly next to the shower, to place one's bag of toiletries. The bed wasn't much of a consolation either, unless your idea of comfort is sinking into what felt like a 50-year-old mattress, and the dampness in the air certainly didn't help dissipate the distinct odour of mould and mildew in the room.

The hotel in Riverhead, however, was a welcome departure from St. Pete's. The lobby was modern yet inviting, as well as artfully and tastefully furnished. The glass bowl of red jumbo Life Savers candy that graced the reception counter also made the check-in process quite pleasant, if not enjoyable, while the snacks for purchase in the lobby, albeit a bit pricey, offered a great selection of healthy alternatives.

Most importantly, of course, was the guestroom. Clean floors, modern bathroom facilities, bright lights, crisp sheets, and oh-so-comfortable pillows ... all in all, a great experience—one that illustrates the inconsistencies that exist within a hotel chain and that ultimately redeemed, in my mind, Hotel Indigo's reputation as an upscale boutique.

I ♥ Porter

"Flying refined." Those two words summarize Porter Airlines' philosophy of reintroducing service, speed, and convenience to air travel. They have also come to define what this Toronto-based airline refers to as the "Porter experience": simple, hassle-free, dignified travel.

Since its launch in 2006, Porter Airlines has taken flight with its commitment to delivering on its brand promise—a promise that resonates with those in search of sophistication and, well, refinement, shall we say, in their air travel.

My first experience with Porter was with a flight I took in early September to New York City, and, as a loyal Aeroplan frequent flyer who has always made an effort to book through a Star Alliance carrier, I must say that I have since changed my tune and been singing the praises of Porter (for short-haul flights, anyhow).

Of course, let me begin by explaining that Porter isn't designed for every traveller. It caters to two target markets: (1) the business traveller, who is looking to minimize his time in getting from point A to point B; and (2) the young urban professional with the disposable income to fund her travel addiction. A family living in one of Toronto's suburbs, for instance, would probably be better off flying out of Pearson International Airport (YYZ), located 27 kilometres northwest of the city, than a downtown resident of a waterfront condo, who is literally a five-minute cab ride from Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport (YTZ).

For those passengers wishing to save on the $10 cab fare, there is the option of catching Porter's complimentary shuttle bus, which runs every 15 minutes between The Fairmont Royal York hotel, just outside of Union Station, and the island airport. Logistics, however, are just the beginning ...

Other perks of flying Porter include: self-check-in kiosks and up to two articles of complimentary checked baggage; sleek, modern lounges providing standard amenities such as a business centre, Wi-Fi connectivity, and complimentary snacks (roasted almonds, ginger shortbread biscuits, along with on-board TERRA Chips—mmm ... so good!) and beverages (coffee, tea, bottled water, as well as on-board beer and wine—yes, also complimentary!); and in-flight service featuring custom leather upholstery and headrest covers, more leg room, and an ambient-noise-reduction system. Need I say more? Flying refined, indeed.

As of September 20: Porter Airlines operates 11 daily round-trip flights between Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport and Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR).

Indian Eats

My penchant for good Indian cuisine stemmed from my visit to New York City in early March of this year when my friend took me to a restaurant in his Midtown Manhattan neighbourhood of Murray Hill.

Commonly referred to as "Curry Hill"—and for good reason—Murray Hill boasts a high concentration of Indian eateries, among which lies a hidden gem called Copper Chimney. Although the menu is limited to a selection of signature dishes representative of both the northern and the southern regions of India, the quality of the ingredients, coupled with the friendly service, makes this "fine casual dining" experience a real pleasure in a trendy yet unpretentious atmosphere—second only to my favourite Indian restaurant in my downtown Toronto neighbourhood, right in the heart of the Entertainment District.

Tucked away at 259 Wellington Street West, 259 Host is one of the best-kept secrets in town and one of the more under-rated eateries in the city, not receiving the volume of traffic it deserves, due in large part to its location just a block south from its competitors along the much busier, more vibrant King Street West—home to Roy Thomson Hall, as well as the Royal Alexandra and the Princess of Wales theatres.

Since stumbling upon 259 Host a few months ago, I've frequented this place on a handful of occasions—a few times for take-out but oftentimes for dine-in—and, each time I enter through the doors of this elegantly designed establishment, I am greeted with the same level of warmth and hospitality as previous visits, the kind of VIP treatment one would expect to receive when flying first-class and while staying at the presidential suite in a five-star hotel. At 259 Host, you are family, an old-time friend, and, above all else, the guest of honour. Staff here are quick to replenish your basket of naan or roti, to fill your glass of wine or water, and to sweep away any crumbs that happen to land on your table. However, all this only speaks to the impeccable service ...

The dishes are just as delightfully inviting, so much so that to draw your attention to just the Tilapia and lobster tail (cooked in a tandoor and coated in red pepper, coconut, and spinach) or to its famous butter chicken and Saag Panir would be a disservice to the other items on its menu. There is a reason that first-time patrons become loyal frequent diners at this fine Indian restaurant. You won't be disappointed.

Copper Chimney (NYC) is located at: 126 East 28th Street (between Park and Lexington Avenues)
259 Host (Toronto) is located at: 259 Wellington Street West (between Blue Jays Way and John Street)

A Word About ... Wraps

Perhaps the biggest pet peeve I have about wraps are the loose ones—those half-heartedly rolled-up pita wraps, flour tortilla wraps, and, yes, my recent encounter with naan wraps. I'm sure you know what I'm referring to: the ones that are so clumsily put together that they fall apart once you attempt to strategically roll down the foil paper to take a bite out of them; the ones whereby all the contents that constitute the filling fall out, with mayonnaise, olive oil, vinaigrette, and any other dressing dripping down the sides of the wrap and in between your fingers, prompting you to reach for a wad of paper napkins.

It boggles the mind sometimes how this one simple yet crucial aspect of wrap rolling is overlooked by those in the food preparation industry who clearly weren't paying attention in training. If any managers are reading this, you may want to ensure that this technique is mastered by relevant staff behind the counter. Believe me when I say that it makes all the difference to the end product and, consequently, to the overall satisfaction of the consumer :).

BLT Fish (NYC)

During one of several visits to New York City, I had the pleasure of dining at BLT Fish—a name that initially conjured up an image of a Filet-O-Fish or a hamburger, though I assure you that Bistro Laurent Tourondel's seafood establishment, nestled in a charming townhouse in Manhattan's Gramercy/Flatiron district, is far removed from the greasiness that one has come to associate with American fast-food haunts such as Burger King and McDonald's.

A glass elevator whisks you up from the ground level, which houses BLT Fish Shack—a more laid-back, casual, family-oriented alternative, reminiscent of a New England oyster bar—and, upon stepping out on to the third floor, what will catch your eye are the stunning architecture (retractable glass roof), elegant décor (walnut tables and suede walls), and interesting arrangement of the dining room, which includes a full view of the kitchen, where the chefs work their magic each night of the week, with the exception of Sunday.

I ordered the Pecorino-crusted Pacific halibut in mushroom jus and truffle oil, along with the spinach sautéed in ginger and cumin. The Pecorino added a crisp texture to the otherwise succulent halibut, while the vegetable side dish made an excellent accompaniment to the fish.

What made the dining experience particularly memorable, however, was the assortment of amuse-bouche that made its way to the table throughout the evening, complimentary of the chef. Notable mentions include the green-apple-flavoured cotton candy, handsomely presented in a Mason jar, and, best of all, the cheddar and chive biscuit, creatively served with sea-salt butter and maple syrup.

Remarking just a few days prior, while atop the ferris wheel at the Park Avenue Armory Carnival, that I wasn't much a fan of cotton candy, that evening at BLT Fish, my fingers kept making their way to that jar of green confection—a tasty twist to the classic fairground treat.

Finally, the warm biscuit, though nothing extraordinary on its own, was deliciously mind-blowing when dipped in the square slab of butter floating perfectly alongside the maple syrup. Mmm ... nothing short of fabulous!

BLT Fish is located at: 21 West 17th Street (between 5th and 6th Avenues)