Crêperies

Living in France during my French undergrad studies definitely had its perks when it came to its cuisine. I recall with nostalgia my daily visits to the local boulangerie for a demi-baguette or to one of a number of corner-block pâtisseries where I often indulged in a pain au chocolat (sometimes two, maybe even three). Best of all, however, I cherished those moments where I'd satiate my appetite with a (savoury) galette or a (sweet) crêpe, be it while wandering the labyrinthine streets in the old part of town or taking a picturesque stroll along the Promenade des Anglais. Ahh ... those were the days!

Although crêperies are nothing new in North America and, in general, are fairly consistent when it comes to their dessert crêpes (one can hardly go wrong with dessert!), I still haven't stumbled upon a galette quite like the ones I inhaled in France, particularly during my brief séjour in Rennes, the Breton capital famous for its thin buckwheat-flour pancakes ("les galettes bretonnes"). To this day, I am still in search of that perfect galette here on this side of the Atlantic ...

Though none has come close, here are a few Toronto crêperies that may, at the very least, satisfy your cravings till your next flight to France:

• Café Crêpe: is great if you're looking for a dessert crêpe (my all-time favourites are the cinnamon sugar and dark chocolate banana—simple and oh-so-good!). However, if your focus is on a savoury meal, I'd recommend one of the other crêperies mentioned below. The galettes here are made with the same batter used for the dessert crêpes and are therefore too thick, too heavy, and too dry. The spinach galette? Imagine a plain flour tortilla filled with canned spinach and nothing else (no cheese, no sauce, no oil, no dressing—nothing). To illustrate just how dry that galette would feel in your mouth, you'd have to rely on lots of water in between bites to assist the digestion process. I ordered a similar galette on another occasion (just in case kitchen staff were being absent-minded that one particular day), but the savoury crêpes appear to be consistent—consistently awful, that is.
• Crêpes à GoGo: gets a high rating. French-owned and -operated (chatted with the proprietor, Valérie, who hails from Marseille), this crêperie offers a solid menu of both crêpes and galettes, with just the right amount of filling in every bite. Although seating is limited and overall prices are a bit steeper than at Café Crêpe, the taste and quality of the ingredients definitely make the trip to Yorkville worth its while.
• Jules Bistro: could be better. While the crêpes are prepared in generous portions and are quite pleasing to the palette, don't even think about customizing your order—to my dismay, I learned that they come pre-made and frozen, so elimination of any ingredient isn't made possible. Needless to say, I was not all too impressed ...
• Le Papillon (on Front): is one I frequent on a fairly regular basis. The quality and presentation vary, depending on the kitchen staff at any given moment, but it certainly hasn't precluded me from going back, time and again. My usual? The crêpe florentine with the garlic mushrooms, followed by the crêpe banane royale for dessert—perfect with a flute of Café de Paris for either brunch or dinner.

Crêpe banane royale (Le Papillon)

Toronto's Distillery District

When I reflect on the number of cities that I have either lived in or travelled to over the past several years, there are a handful of them that occupy a special place in my heart.

From the City of Light and the Côte d'Azur ... to the Paris of the East and the city that never sleeps, I often ask myself what it is that makes these cities tick, that magnetic quality that never ceases to tug at my heartstrings each and every time I'm there. Is it the charming sidewalk cafés and local crêperies ... or the white sandy (sometimes pebbled) beaches and deep-blue Mediterranean Sea? Or is it the cultural diversity of cities on the move that awakens my senses and always keeps me coming back for more?

And then ... there's Toronto—my city of birth and beloved hometown, but certainly not the sexy sibling in a family of superstars. It is, nonetheless, a city I've called home for many years and one that has its appeal in its own little ways ...

In the east end of downtown Toronto is an historic area known as the Distillery District—a pedestrian village of brick-lined streets and restored Victorian industrial architecture that is home to live theatres, art galleries, studios, independent boutiques, open-air festivals, restaurants, and cafés. Nowhere in this city will you see such a rich concentration and an eclectic mix of artistic talent than in this hip and trendy neighbourhood.

Here are a few of my favourites (in alphabetical order):

• Balzac's Coffee: Inspired by France's 19th-century novelist and playright of the same name, this coffeehouse pays homage to one of history's literary greats ... and greatest coffee lovers, said to have consumed copious amounts throughout his nights of prolific writing, one of which produced a dissertation titled The Pleasures and Pains of Coffee. A fine selection of delectable blends in an architecturally stunning ambience.
• Bergo Designs: features a diverse and innovative line of sleek, modern home décor products, furniture, and jewellery by international designers such as Frank Gehry, Michael Graves, and Philippe Starck. An impressive showcase of elegance and sophistication in design.
• Hästens: Walk into this store that specializes in Swedish-designed, handcrafted beds and be greeted by amicable staff who encourage you to lie on their beds as they eagerly await to assist you with all your bed, mattress, and pillow needs.
• Soma Chocolatemaker: really deserves a post of its own. In the meantime, step into this chocolate shop and observe first-hand the handcraftsmanship of truffles, biscuits, and drink mixes through the glass windows of Soma's micro chocolate factory—one of but a few North American artisans of chocolate, made in small batches directly from the cacao bean. "A place to eat, drink and worship chocolate." Mmm ... simply divine!

The Distillery Historic District is located at: 55 Mill Street (between Parliament and Cherry Streets)

Hotel Indigo

For as long as I can remember, hotel accommodation has been an important aspect of my travels, and the more travelling I accomplish these days, the more importance I attach to the quality and comfort level of hotel choices. This may seem odd, coming from an avid traveller who loves to explore, preferring to optimize her time by spending the majority of it outside the hotel and in and around the city, but when you give it some more thought, it makes absolute sense. Sleep, after all, is a prized commodity, and just one lousy night in a not-so-lovely hotel room can set the tone for the following day and, in turn, the overall experience of your trip.

Unless your company is flying you down to an all-inclusive luxury resort for the purpose of a business conference, or you belong to the jet-setting crowd of the rich and famous, value will factor into the equation when it comes to booking your hotel room, and that's where the concept of Hotel Indigo appeals to one's senses.

Marketed as an "upscale boutique" brand, Hotel Indigo belongs to the InterContinental Hotels Group and is being touted as "the industry's first branded boutique hotel experience," unique in its retail-inspired design concept of keeping up with the pace of change—the change in window displays, if you will—all at affordable prices.

I stayed at one such hotel in St. Petersburg (Florida) and another in Riverhead (New York) earlier this year—two different hotels resulting in two very different experiences ...

While both offered standard Aveda hair and body products (always a bonus in my book of amenities), and service was courteous and professional, the hotel in St. Pete, which appeared to have been converted from a very old mansion, also had the look (chipped paint) and feel (mugginess) and smell (mildew) of a very old mansion, all the while trying to present itself as a trendy boutique hotel. Alas, boutique and trendy it was not.

In fact, I was more comfortable wearing my flip-flops into the shower, which, though spaceous, occupied half the size of the bathroom. This would have been perfectly fine, only it left just enough room to squeeze in a miniature sink, allowing nowhere, besides the hotel's signature wooden stool, which stands awkwardly next to the shower, to place one's bag of toiletries. The bed wasn't much of a consolation either, unless your idea of comfort is sinking into what felt like a 50-year-old mattress, and the dampness in the air certainly didn't help dissipate the distinct odour of mould and mildew in the room.

The hotel in Riverhead, however, was a welcome departure from St. Pete's. The lobby was modern yet inviting, as well as artfully and tastefully furnished. The glass bowl of red jumbo Life Savers candy that graced the reception counter also made the check-in process quite pleasant, if not enjoyable, while the snacks for purchase in the lobby, albeit a bit pricey, offered a great selection of healthy alternatives.

Most importantly, of course, was the guestroom. Clean floors, modern bathroom facilities, bright lights, crisp sheets, and oh-so-comfortable pillows ... all in all, a great experience—one that illustrates the inconsistencies that exist within a hotel chain and that ultimately redeemed, in my mind, Hotel Indigo's reputation as an upscale boutique.

I ♥ Porter

"Flying refined." Those two words summarize Porter Airlines' philosophy of reintroducing service, speed, and convenience to air travel. They have also come to define what this Toronto-based airline refers to as the "Porter experience": simple, hassle-free, dignified travel.

Since its launch in 2006, Porter Airlines has taken flight with its commitment to delivering on its brand promise—a promise that resonates with those in search of sophistication and, well, refinement, shall we say, in their air travel.

My first experience with Porter was with a flight I took in early September to New York City, and, as a loyal Aeroplan frequent flyer who has always made an effort to book through a Star Alliance carrier, I must say that I have since changed my tune and been singing the praises of Porter (for short-haul flights, anyhow).

Of course, let me begin by explaining that Porter isn't designed for every traveller. It caters to two target markets: (1) the business traveller, who is looking to minimize his time in getting from point A to point B; and (2) the young urban professional with the disposable income to fund her travel addiction. A family living in one of Toronto's suburbs, for instance, would probably be better off flying out of Pearson International Airport (YYZ), located 27 kilometres northwest of the city, than a downtown resident of a waterfront condo, who is literally a five-minute cab ride from Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport (YTZ).

For those passengers wishing to save on the $10 cab fare, there is the option of catching Porter's complimentary shuttle bus, which runs every 15 minutes between The Fairmont Royal York hotel, just outside of Union Station, and the island airport. Logistics, however, are just the beginning ...

Other perks of flying Porter include: self-check-in kiosks and up to two articles of complimentary checked baggage; sleek, modern lounges providing standard amenities such as a business centre, Wi-Fi connectivity, and complimentary snacks (roasted almonds, ginger shortbread biscuits, along with on-board TERRA Chips—mmm ... so good!) and beverages (coffee, tea, bottled water, as well as on-board beer and wine—yes, also complimentary!); and in-flight service featuring custom leather upholstery and headrest covers, more leg room, and an ambient-noise-reduction system. Need I say more? Flying refined, indeed.

As of September 20: Porter Airlines operates 11 daily round-trip flights between Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport and Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR).

Indian Eats

My penchant for good Indian cuisine stemmed from my visit to New York City in early March of this year when my friend took me to a restaurant in his Midtown Manhattan neighbourhood of Murray Hill.

Commonly referred to as "Curry Hill"—and for good reason—Murray Hill boasts a high concentration of Indian eateries, among which lies a hidden gem called Copper Chimney. Although the menu is limited to a selection of signature dishes representative of both the northern and the southern regions of India, the quality of the ingredients, coupled with the friendly service, makes this "fine casual dining" experience a real pleasure in a trendy yet unpretentious atmosphere—second only to my favourite Indian restaurant in my downtown Toronto neighbourhood, right in the heart of the Entertainment District.

Tucked away at 259 Wellington Street West, 259 Host is one of the best-kept secrets in town and one of the more under-rated eateries in the city, not receiving the volume of traffic it deserves, due in large part to its location just a block south from its competitors along the much busier, more vibrant King Street West—home to Roy Thomson Hall, as well as the Royal Alexandra and the Princess of Wales theatres.

Since stumbling upon 259 Host a few months ago, I've frequented this place on a handful of occasions—a few times for take-out but oftentimes for dine-in—and, each time I enter through the doors of this elegantly designed establishment, I am greeted with the same level of warmth and hospitality as previous visits, the kind of VIP treatment one would expect to receive when flying first-class and while staying at the presidential suite in a five-star hotel. At 259 Host, you are family, an old-time friend, and, above all else, the guest of honour. Staff here are quick to replenish your basket of naan or roti, to fill your glass of wine or water, and to sweep away any crumbs that happen to land on your table. However, all this only speaks to the impeccable service ...

The dishes are just as delightfully inviting, so much so that to draw your attention to just the Tilapia and lobster tail (cooked in a tandoor and coated in red pepper, coconut, and spinach) or to its famous butter chicken and Saag Panir would be a disservice to the other items on its menu. There is a reason that first-time patrons become loyal frequent diners at this fine Indian restaurant. You won't be disappointed.

Copper Chimney (NYC) is located at: 126 East 28th Street (between Park and Lexington Avenues)
259 Host (Toronto) is located at: 259 Wellington Street West (between Blue Jays Way and John Street)

A Word About ... Wraps

Perhaps the biggest pet peeve I have about wraps are the loose ones—those half-heartedly rolled-up pita wraps, flour tortilla wraps, and, yes, my recent encounter with naan wraps. I'm sure you know what I'm referring to: the ones that are so clumsily put together that they fall apart once you attempt to strategically roll down the foil paper to take a bite out of them; the ones whereby all the contents that constitute the filling fall out, with mayonnaise, olive oil, vinaigrette, and any other dressing dripping down the sides of the wrap and in between your fingers, prompting you to reach for a wad of paper napkins.

It boggles the mind sometimes how this one simple yet crucial aspect of wrap rolling is overlooked by those in the food preparation industry who clearly weren't paying attention in training. If any managers are reading this, you may want to ensure that this technique is mastered by relevant staff behind the counter. Believe me when I say that it makes all the difference to the end product and, consequently, to the overall satisfaction of the consumer :).

BLT Fish (NYC)

During one of several visits to New York City, I had the pleasure of dining at BLT Fish—a name that initially conjured up an image of a Filet-O-Fish or a hamburger, though I assure you that Bistro Laurent Tourondel's seafood establishment, nestled in a charming townhouse in Manhattan's Gramercy/Flatiron district, is far removed from the greasiness that one has come to associate with American fast-food haunts such as Burger King and McDonald's.

A glass elevator whisks you up from the ground level, which houses BLT Fish Shack—a more laid-back, casual, family-oriented alternative, reminiscent of a New England oyster bar—and, upon stepping out on to the third floor, what will catch your eye are the stunning architecture (retractable glass roof), elegant décor (walnut tables and suede walls), and interesting arrangement of the dining room, which includes a full view of the kitchen, where the chefs work their magic each night of the week, with the exception of Sunday.

I ordered the Pecorino-crusted Pacific halibut in mushroom jus and truffle oil, along with the spinach sautéed in ginger and cumin. The Pecorino added a crisp texture to the otherwise succulent halibut, while the vegetable side dish made an excellent accompaniment to the fish.

What made the dining experience particularly memorable, however, was the assortment of amuse-bouche that made its way to the table throughout the evening, complimentary of the chef. Notable mentions include the green-apple-flavoured cotton candy, handsomely presented in a Mason jar, and, best of all, the cheddar and chive biscuit, creatively served with sea-salt butter and maple syrup.

Remarking just a few days prior, while atop the ferris wheel at the Park Avenue Armory Carnival, that I wasn't much a fan of cotton candy, that evening at BLT Fish, my fingers kept making their way to that jar of green confection—a tasty twist to the classic fairground treat.

Finally, the warm biscuit, though nothing extraordinary on its own, was deliciously mind-blowing when dipped in the square slab of butter floating perfectly alongside the maple syrup. Mmm ... nothing short of fabulous!

BLT Fish is located at: 21 West 17th Street (between 5th and 6th Avenues)